Already on it mate...
Beiträge von Cadoras
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Dirty first, clean later. In other words: the next version will be clean. That is, if I can convince my rowdy band
of dusters it's the right thing to do. As said, it's not often rolling stock leaves my shed clean. But with some beer
and Italian food I can get thing done.As such, the Vorserie V200 can be available with the following versions:
1953-1961: clean & weathered, "in Lieferzustand"
1962-1967: weathered, adjusted appearance: DB-Keks instead of plated "Deutsche Bundesbahn" and other minor changes
1968-1984: weathered, with EDV-nr.(None of the Vorserie V200's got the "Ozeanblau & Elfenbein" livery)
There were only 5 "Vorserie" locomotives, the V200 001 up to and including V200 005, the 003 was the first one to be
retired in 1978, the 001, 004 & 005 followed in 1980. The V200 002 was the last Vorserie V200 to be retired in 1984.
The 002 got a second life as a very popular museum locomotive. In 2005 however, as perhaps some of you will know,
the V200 002 was burnt to a crisp in a fire that burnt many more old lomotives.Unfortunately, the V200 002 couldn't (apparently) be saved and was scrapped.
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Little progress, ironically I was dragged away to do some real painting.
Needs must alas! But even then I managed to put some time in.One thing I discovered with these kind of locomotives, it´s they are very hard
to properly weather. They are just too smooth... Steamers are easier: with
little effort they can look properly used.That's why I'm posting a before/after shot, just to convince all you folks I
actually did something to it.
The changelog:
1. Redid the colors, "resetted" them to the original RAL-colors and then adjusted them to my taste.
2. Injected some normal mapping - only little to be done though, as Grimes already went balls deep with the detail.
3. Recolored the windows, worked the transparency on the "enginecovers" and finally adjusted the alpha channel (reflection)
4. Brightened up the lights.
5. Changed the "Pufferteller"
6. Replaced all lettering and normal mapped them.
7. Applied the weatheringIt's not done yet, but as good as.
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Next project! I was about to ask Grimes if I could do some repaints of his fantastic V200 when all of sudden I got a request
from Grimes to do exactly that. Nice! So people: the next project will be a texture update of the beautiful V200 made by
@Grimes. The locomotive has been whipped to my workplace and stripped of all its paint. So after some sanding and some
serious "spachteln":Let's see what I can do...
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As far as I could determine the DBz 751 and DABz 756 in 1993.
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The graphics are done.
Before I, incorrectly, stated that I wanted to do the "DABz 755", but that ain't right. The 750 apparently had a "SIG LD 70" bogie.
What I meant was the DBz 751 and DABz 756, made complete with the already done DBbzf(a) 761. -
Most of my "customer" projects started it out with no texture. Usually I ask for a UV and a bake (is that what it's called? I don't know, I don't
know sh*t about modelling) layer. So, if you can bake the thing - you could have all the reference you need.The bake layer can be used as a short
of shading layer. -
Very interesting: You work in the exact reverse of me xD I start with the colors coz thats mostly the simplest part with rough/rugged areas to color. Then i add the details wich is an annoying part for me and after all the texturing is done, i start to create the alpha-map and the bump-map. With the alpha-map I create the transparency and with the bump-map I finally create the normal-map
I usually start by stripping all paint and return the model to its bare essentials. After that: normal mapping & windows. I deem that the most important part, because those parts are the backbone of a texture. Most of the time, the pattern windows and airslats and such are of a symmetrical nature. In turn they dominate how possible graphics (stripes and so forth) must be
placed. Furthermore, the way normal mapping changes the texture it rests on, you might have to make adjustments later on.With this model, it is almost impossible to not start with the normal mapping & windows. Those "mint" stripes must be lined up with the windows and certain rosters. If I had started with the stripes I would almost certain wouldn't come clean with the windows later on.
That being said, I just like this workorder: as you can see in my latest screenshot that waggon looks like a virgin piece of canvas, just begging to painted.
So in short, my work order:
- strip model if it's not bare yet
- make a layout of all parts that need normal mapping and place the windows
- normal map and finish windows
- apply main color
- apply graphics
- apply weathering effects
- apply lettering
- create or finetune alpha channelIs this the best way? I don't know. It's the way I do it, doesn't make it universally the right thing to do. That would be arrogant.
Also I'm convinced that workorder is part of one's personal style. -
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Jeeeez, these greasy headrests
Eh? Weathered on the outside, weathered on the inside. I'm adding all kind of stains...
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Looks late 80's/Early 90's enough - think that's it. Thanks @Railtim
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So, the first post in this thread - a new project:
The Bombardier Doppelstock in Mintgrün/Grau, a repaint of @baubus his fantastic set.